Nuvari Sarees of Maharashtra – The 9 Yard Paithani Sarees

A long versatile traditional drape from Maharastra, Nauwarisaree is known for its unique pant style draping. Nau meaning 9 and var meaning yards, it literally translates to nine yards making it different from the regular sixyard saree in length. Also known as Kaashtha, Sakachcha and Lugada, this gracefully traditional yet timelessly sexy style of drape has survived generations and continues to rule the traditional fashion scenario.

History of Nauvari Sarees:

The Nauwari Sarees have a historic background. During the Maratha rule, women were equipped to fight wars alongside their counterparts. Nauvari saree was introduced by the Peshwa women during this period to facilitate easy movement. The Nauvari sarees were nothing but the traditional peshwai paithani sarees but in 9 yards instead of traditional 6 yards. Thus the costume became a symbol of strength and capability reminding of the caliber of women to equal men even in difficult art of warfare. It is thus obvious that the brave air, associated with Maharashtrian women, found its epitome in the outstandingly courageous, Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi who fought against the British for her motherland, during the Revolt of 1857. Thus, the Nauvari sari, drives home the essential truth, that woman is not just a nurturer but also the protector of good when it comes to it.

Such is the vibes of this unique drape that the renowned painter of the 19^th century, Raja Ravi Varma, chose this form of drape to represent goddesses in his paintings as according to him, the nine yard saree not just drapes the body beautifully exhibiting contours of female anatomy but also brings out the vigor and valor of womanhood.

Community and Culture:

A symbol of Maharashtrian culture, Nauvari sarees are worn by all classes of women in Maharashtra. On one hand, it is a traditional attire worn by upper caste Bhraminwomen to perform religious rituals and on the other, it is worn by so called low caste lavani dancers for entertainment and also by fisherwomen of Kolhi community as a work garment.

Popularized by Bollywood bigwigs like Madhuri Dixit and Vidya Balan, today Nauvari saree is considered a glamorous outfit and it is increasingly worn by Maharashtrian brides to their wedding ceremonies. As it makes a comeback, the nauvari saree is a powerful reminder of society's treatment of women and how this perspective has evolved into the modern day appreciation of the garment.

Fabric and Designs in Nauvari:

Like any traditional saree, the nauvari saree can be made of different materials and patterned with various designs. Cotton nauvari sarees are popular as they are easy to wash and wear and are breathable. Formal nauvari sarees are made of silk. Paithani silk sarees from the Paithan region of Maharashtra is often used for wedding ceremonies. Brightly colored and embellished in real zari, Paithani silk sarees are known for their thick, patterned borders. The rest of the saree is simply patterned, with nothing too elaborate to distract from the heavy borders and shimmery appearance. They make a perfect wear during traditional Maharashtrian ceremonies.

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Arni Silk Sarees from Tamilnadu

Introduction to ArniSarees:

Arni, a town located in the district of Thiruvannamalai at a distance of 132 kms to the west of Chennai is one of the most important Silk centers of Tamil Nadu. Located on the banks of KamandalaNaaga River, it gets its name from Araneeyam which means ‘A place surrounded by a forest’. People of Arni produce silk sarees and handloom fabrics of good quality. Weaving is done by ladies and gents.  Arni is well known for its traditional Arni silk sarees. Arni silks are well known for the durability of the colours used in the yarn.

History & Origin:

Arni was ruled by Pallavas followed by Cholas who conquered and ruled for a long period of time.  Few significant Chola kings who ruled Arni are First KulothungaCholan, VikramaCholan and Second KulothungaCholan. During the rule of the Vijayanagara Kingdom in Arni, the Dasara function was celebrated grandly. The famous 18th century Marathi poet, Raghunath Pandit, author of the very beautiful poem "Nal-Damayanti Swayamvarakhyana" narrating the story of swayamvara of Nala& Damayanti is also believed to have lived here.

Mahatma Gandhi happened to visit Arni twice in 1922 to participate in a Harijan development meeting. The people of Arni welcomed him warmly and also took active part in the Anti Simon Commission movement.

Characteristics & Features:

The specialty of ArniSarees is that they are made with two different bodies on each side and two different pallus which can be used as two different sarees.  These sarees are designed so shrewdly that on one side of the body, half the saree is in one colour and the other half in another and the two ends portray different pallus and in the other side the entire body will be of one colour with one pallu. Thus an Arni silk saree can be used as three different sarees. Another complicated design is that on one side of the saree, there will be two different colours in half portion each and at the two end, two pallus and on the other side also it is the same thus one saree can be used as four different sarees! Arni silk saree is also known for its special designs in the pallu. Potent with such special features and yet Arni silk saree prices are far more economical than its counterpart, the Kanchipuram silk sarees.

Weaving Process:

The looms used in making of Arni sarees are mostly Frame looms. To create Arni silk saree designs, first the design is made on computer that is then punched into thick cards and loaded into the Jacard in the loom that in turn create designs on the saree.

In making Arni sarees, first the yarn is washed and then dipped in the required colour in a boiler while going on turning the yarn so that the colour is evenly mixed in the yarn. The most important aspect in the process of making Arni silk sarees is the mixing of colours that gives unique and durable colour to the fabric. The yarn is then again washed and dried before it is startched. Starching of the yarn ensures that the yarn gets more permanent color and gives it a polished look.

The loading of yarn in warp is the next step. The yarn is then loaded into the looms. The length of yarn which is loaded as warp is known as Pavvu. A weaver can make four arni sarees from one pavvu. It will take a week to weave one pavvu of four arni silks.

The count used in weaving gives the softness and hardness of the fabric.  The count in the Arni silk saree is 2400 which means that there will be 2400 threads in warp and wept, giving strength and durability to the saree.

Patterns, Colors and Motifs:

Arni silk sarees are a treasure of rich hues. Its color palette includes rich reds and prominent greens and blues and vibrant yellows and purples and many other such eye catchy colors.

Dravidian temple motifs are predominant in Arni silk sarees. Adorned with zari, these silk sarees consist of popular southern motifs like the magnificent peacocks and paisleys.

Geometric patterns like splendid trikons, chakras and diamonds too are very popular. Like most popular south weaves, Arni silk sarees flaunt temple borers.

Price Range:

Based on the intricacy of work, the number of colors used, the complexity of patterns and many other such factors, Arni silk sarees can range anywhere from Rs.5000/- to Rs.25000/-. The reason for their immense popularity is the fact that they resemble the legendary Kanchipuram sarees in their rich looks but they are far more affordable than them.

How to Identify an Arni Silk Saree:

Arni sarees that are famous for their softness and durability are soft and comfortable to wear and is are suitable for all climates. The designs displayed have the trademark of south silk and yet they standout distinctly from a Kanchipuram or a Salem in terms of looks. The most distinguishing feature of Arni silk sarees that make it easily identifiable from the rest is the fact that they are made with two different bodies on each side and two different pallus which can be used as two different sarees. Arni silks are also known for their special designs in the pallu.

Wash & Care Guidelines:

• Dry cleaning is generally recommended for silk sarees.

• In case of washing the saree at home, use a mild detergent after two or three plain washes. Do not keep the sari soaked in detergent for long.
• Do not brush or lash a silk saree as it would lead to tearing of the silk or zari.
• Wash pallu and border separately in the beginning.
• Do not bundle it or keep it wet for a long time.
• In case of stains, wash with cold water immediately.
• For hard stains, get the sari strictly dry cleaned.
• Do not bundle the wet sari along with other garments as it is liable to cause staining.
• Chlorine bleach should never be used on silk as it damages the silk and causes it to yellow.

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Sarees – The Best gifts on this Rakhi to your Sisters

She belongs to the 21^st century. She is independent and self-made. She can take her own decisions and most of all, she can take care of her self and doesn’t need you to protect her. But there is still something that your darling sister will never give upon expecting from you and that is the unconditional love you shower upon her and of course a gift from you is always a welcome, especially on the auspicious occasion of Raksha Bandhan! After all she is a woman and a woman can never say no to gifts! So the point is how do you make the silken thread ceremony a special one for your darling sister this time?

The purity of the handwoven silk sarees is a fair exchange for the silken thread that depicts purity and sacredness of a brother sister relationship. So this Raksha Bandhan, keep it simple, just click a silk saree on Shatika! Here are a few categories you can choose from:

Bandhej Sarees: Vibrant and vivacious, Bandhej silk sarees are from Rajasthan. Made using a highly skilled process, the tie and dye of Bandhej involves dyeing a saree that is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns. You will see that it’s a fair bargain for the pure and sacred silken thread being tied around your wrist this Raksha Bandhan!

Printed silk sarees: Bubbly designs and effervescent colors describe printed silk sarees. Cheery prints and flowy texture of these laudable sarees are sure to leave your sister bubbling with excitement!

Leheriya Sarees: Raksha Bandhan is a big festive in vibrant Rajasthan. So to all the people from lively Rajasthan in spirit, celebrate the authentic flowy patterns of Lahariya, so famous in Rajasthan as it gets laid on the celebrated weave of Kota silk. Infused with colors and enthused in spirit, gift one to your sister today and enjoy the smile it brings on her face.

Tussar Sarees: A saree she is going to love, a saree you can’t miss – gorgeously beautiful, splendorous and elegant and overtly smart, tussar sarees can never be a bad choice as they reflect the dynamic and charming nature of a woman.

Mulberry silk sarees: In iridescent colors and kaleidoscopic designs, mulberry sarees are very cheerful and charming. Made from the purest silk in the world, what better way to depict the sacredness of the sacred Rakhities!

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Uppada Sarees - Beauty and Comfort in Unison

Soft and delicately woven, Uppada sarees are a manifestation of a woman’s emotions. An epitome of beauty, liveliness, resilience, strength and vigour, a woman has been the source of inspiration in putting life into these uppada silk sarees that are known for their soft texture, spirited colors, distinct decorative patterns, artistic zari work and exquisite designs.

Considered one of the most labour intensive and pain staking forms of handloom weaving, Uppada sarees are made of fine muslin that is best known for its softness and resilience. Glorious looking and light weight, these almost translucent sarees hold great esteem the world over and are seen as one of the foremost contributors to India’s textile chronicles.

The Padmashalis who in the 19^th century settled in Uppada village in East Godavari district close to the port city of Kakinada in Andhra Pradesh is the sole weaver community that specializes in weaving Uppada sarees. Weaving these incredible weaves using the ancient jamdani techniques but with uniquely local adaptation, they have been weaving Uppada sarees for over 2 centuries now.

There is an interesting history associated with the Padmasaalis. It is said that the Padmashali community has its roots from Lord Sriman Narayana who is considered to be the one from whose navel Lord Brahma emerged. They are considered to be the descendants of Maharishi Brighu who was said to be born from the heart of Lord Brahma. Down the lineage of Brighu Maharishi, Bhavana Rishi who taught the technique of weaving, and his wife Bhadravathi had 101 Padmashali children and Padmashalis are the descendants of these 100 sons who are spread all over India and other parts of the World!

Weaving Uppada sarees is an intensely manual process where two weavers work together on one loom to create the delicate designs & fine fabric with zari and silk threads. Length & breadth count of threads used in weaving is 100 and it takes 2 months to make these softest & finest silk sarees that are a nice blend of tradition & trend.

Uppada patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to originate in Persian and Mughal fusion thousands of years ago. Somewhat like tapestry work where small shuttles of colored, gold or silver threads are passed through the weft, the Jamdani designs range from the ‘butidar’, where the entire sari is scattered with floral sprays, to diagonally-striped floral sprays or the ‘tercha’ and a network of floral motifs called ‘jhalar’.

Keeping up the modern demand, present day Uppada jamdani saris have on their ground designs of rose, jasmine, lotus, bunches of bananas, bunches of ginger and sago. The Victoria and Albert Museum of London exhibit a fine collection of these sarees and these weavers have also received a GI registration in 2009. Due to the comfort factor attached to these rich looking sarees, they are a preferred choice of today’s women during occasions like weddings, festivals and religious ceremonies.

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Introduction to Narayanpet Sarees:

A small town in the Mehboob Nagar district, Narayanpet lies in the border between Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. Among the quaint setup of small jeweler shops and grocery stores by the streets, huddled houses and small lanes and by lanes is a peculiar clacking of looms echoing on the busy streets that are draped with sarees. Take a closer look and one will know that most doors on these streets open into the homes of weavers of Narayanpet sarees who interestingly come from every community and religion and co- exist harmoniously. Highly skilled artisans, there are Telugus, Marathis and Kannadigas and both Hindus and Muslims who work together to create magic with their fingers. And interestingly, this harmony reflects in their weave too that bare resemblance to handloom sarees from Karnataka and Maharastra.

History and Origin:

History has it that weaving of Narayanpet sarees began in the year 1630 AD by the great Maratha King, Chathrapati Shivaji  Maharaj. So impressed was he with the vibrant drape of the women of this region that the town got its royal Maratha patronage. The other version of the story is that when he camped here in 1630AD, some of his weavers stayed back and developed the weave in this region the reason why one can see a lot of Maharashtrian influence in its weave.

Characteristics & Features:

The most beautiful quality of Narayanpet sarees is that these sarees in both silk and cotton can be worn all-round the season by women of all age groups for all kinds of occasions. The special feature of these sarees is their wide spectrum of vibrant festive colors along with their contrast borders and pallus. Some of the silk sarees are adorned with zari designs and they are best suited for festivals and get together. Considered auspicious and pious, they make an apt wear for religious ceremonies too.

In 2012, Narayanpet sarees got its Geographical Indicator (GI) registration with the government of India.

Weaving Process:

One of the most exquisite and distinct qualities of Narayanpet sarees is their adoption of the most unique and exclusive process of weaving where the loom has the capacity of producing 8 sarees in one go! Thus instead of the standard 7 yards of fabric being mounted on the loom, 56 yards of Silk are mounted on the loom at a single time. Woven in a variety of fabrics like silk, silk cotton and cotton, only natural or vegetable dyes are used in producing different hues. The actual weaving starts after the degumming, dyeing and drying process.While production of Narayanpetsilk sarees take about 4 to 5 days, the Narayanpetcotton sarees take lesser time.

Patterns, Colors & Motifs:

Narayanpet sarees generally sport plain vibrant colors with contrast pallus and borders. The ones weaved for occasion wear feature small zari stripes on pallus & borders. While cotton sarees are mostly plain with coloured checks on the body sometimes to lend them that ethnic look, the Narayanpet silk sarees have a distinctive style of their own and are influenced by the styles evolved in Maharashtra with the patti (stripes) border and a broad pallu known as the top-Tenni pallu. The borders and pallus of these sarees are very traditional that are characterized by a rich pallu with a unique pattern of alternating red and white bands. The border is usually a flat expanse of deep maroon red or chocolate red, thinly separated by white or colored lines.

Price Range:

One of the most important reasons for the popularity of Narayanpet sarees is their affordability since no other silk or cotton saree this pure is in this price bracket. A typical Narayanpet silk saree can be in the range of Rs. 4000/- to Rs. 6000/- while a cotton saree is lesser and may range anywhere between 2000/- to 3000/-

How to Identify a Narayanpet Saree:

Narayanpet sarees can be easily distinguished from the rest of the weaves with a checkered pattern it sports along with the unique patti border and top- tenni pallu. The borders and pallus of these sarees are very traditional that are characterized by a rich pallu with a unique pattern of alternating red and white bands. The border is usually a flat expanse of deep maroon red or chocolate red, thinly separated by white or colored lines.

Wash and Care Guidelines:

• The most comforting aspect of Narayanpet sarees is that they need less maintenance compared to other silk sarees.

• Use a mild detergent after two or three plain washes. Do not keep the sari soaked in detergent for long.
• Do not brush or lash a silk saree as it would lead to tearing of the silk or zari.
• Wash pallu and border separately in the beginning.
• Do not bundle it or keep it wet for a long time.
• In case of stains, wash with cold water immediately.
• For hard stains, get the sari dry cleaned.
• Do not bundle the wet sari along with other garments liable to cause staining.
• Chlorine bleach should never be used on silk as it damages the silk and causes it to yellow.

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