Arni Silk Sarees from Tamilnadu

Introduction to ArniSarees:

Arni, a town located in the district of Thiruvannamalai at a distance of 132 kms to the west of Chennai is one of the most important Silk centers of Tamil Nadu. Located on the banks of KamandalaNaaga River, it gets its name from Araneeyam which means ‘A place surrounded by a forest’. People of Arni produce silk sarees and handloom fabrics of good quality. Weaving is done by ladies and gents.  Arni is well known for its traditional Arni silk sarees. Arni silks are well known for the durability of the colours used in the yarn.

History & Origin:

Arni was ruled by Pallavas followed by Cholas who conquered and ruled for a long period of time.  Few significant Chola kings who ruled Arni are First KulothungaCholan, VikramaCholan and Second KulothungaCholan. During the rule of the Vijayanagara Kingdom in Arni, the Dasara function was celebrated grandly. The famous 18th century Marathi poet, Raghunath Pandit, author of the very beautiful poem "Nal-Damayanti Swayamvarakhyana" narrating the story of swayamvara of Nala& Damayanti is also believed to have lived here.

Mahatma Gandhi happened to visit Arni twice in 1922 to participate in a Harijan development meeting. The people of Arni welcomed him warmly and also took active part in the Anti Simon Commission movement.

Characteristics & Features:

The specialty of ArniSarees is that they are made with two different bodies on each side and two different pallus which can be used as two different sarees.  These sarees are designed so shrewdly that on one side of the body, half the saree is in one colour and the other half in another and the two ends portray different pallus and in the other side the entire body will be of one colour with one pallu. Thus an Arni silk saree can be used as three different sarees. Another complicated design is that on one side of the saree, there will be two different colours in half portion each and at the two end, two pallus and on the other side also it is the same thus one saree can be used as four different sarees! Arni silk saree is also known for its special designs in the pallu. Potent with such special features and yet Arni silk saree prices are far more economical than its counterpart, the Kanchipuram silk sarees.

Weaving Process:

The looms used in making of Arni sarees are mostly Frame looms. To create Arni silk saree designs, first the design is made on computer that is then punched into thick cards and loaded into the Jacard in the loom that in turn create designs on the saree.

In making Arni sarees, first the yarn is washed and then dipped in the required colour in a boiler while going on turning the yarn so that the colour is evenly mixed in the yarn. The most important aspect in the process of making Arni silk sarees is the mixing of colours that gives unique and durable colour to the fabric. The yarn is then again washed and dried before it is startched. Starching of the yarn ensures that the yarn gets more permanent color and gives it a polished look.

The loading of yarn in warp is the next step. The yarn is then loaded into the looms. The length of yarn which is loaded as warp is known as Pavvu. A weaver can make four arni sarees from one pavvu. It will take a week to weave one pavvu of four arni silks.

The count used in weaving gives the softness and hardness of the fabric.  The count in the Arni silk saree is 2400 which means that there will be 2400 threads in warp and wept, giving strength and durability to the saree.

Patterns, Colors and Motifs:

Arni silk sarees are a treasure of rich hues. Its color palette includes rich reds and prominent greens and blues and vibrant yellows and purples and many other such eye catchy colors.

Dravidian temple motifs are predominant in Arni silk sarees. Adorned with zari, these silk sarees consist of popular southern motifs like the magnificent peacocks and paisleys.

Geometric patterns like splendid trikons, chakras and diamonds too are very popular. Like most popular south weaves, Arni silk sarees flaunt temple borers.

Price Range:

Based on the intricacy of work, the number of colors used, the complexity of patterns and many other such factors, Arni silk sarees can range anywhere from Rs.5000/- to Rs.25000/-. The reason for their immense popularity is the fact that they resemble the legendary Kanchipuram sarees in their rich looks but they are far more affordable than them.

How to Identify an Arni Silk Saree:

Arni sarees that are famous for their softness and durability are soft and comfortable to wear and is are suitable for all climates. The designs displayed have the trademark of south silk and yet they standout distinctly from a Kanchipuram or a Salem in terms of looks. The most distinguishing feature of Arni silk sarees that make it easily identifiable from the rest is the fact that they are made with two different bodies on each side and two different pallus which can be used as two different sarees. Arni silks are also known for their special designs in the pallu.

Wash & Care Guidelines:

• Dry cleaning is generally recommended for silk sarees.

• In case of washing the saree at home, use a mild detergent after two or three plain washes. Do not keep the sari soaked in detergent for long.
• Do not brush or lash a silk saree as it would lead to tearing of the silk or zari.
• Wash pallu and border separately in the beginning.
• Do not bundle it or keep it wet for a long time.
• In case of stains, wash with cold water immediately.
• For hard stains, get the sari strictly dry cleaned.
• Do not bundle the wet sari along with other garments as it is liable to cause staining.
• Chlorine bleach should never be used on silk as it damages the silk and causes it to yellow.

Image courtesy:

http://bit.ly/2vBIOJg