Kanjivaram or Kanchipuram sarees are silk sarees made in Kanchipuram of Tamil Nadu.  One of the finest silk sarees available in India, each saree is woven with a lot of care and dedication.  It takes up to 4 months to weave a single kanchipuram sarees.

Made in pure mulberry silk, Kanchipuram silk sarees come in different colours and patterns and showcase very rich and intricate woven work. In South India, Kanjivaram sarees are specially picked as bridal sarees and are considered very auspicious wedding wear. The weavers of Kanchipuram follow certain rituals before weaving bridal sarees, making these sarees even more special.

Smitten by the unmatched grace and allure of Kanjeevaram Sarees, our Bollywood divas have always been enamored by its magic. A preferred drape since yesteryears, Bollywood has seen many a veteran actresses as well as young talent today drape these wonder silk sarees for many an award functions, film premiers or special screenings and grace the occasion. Let’s look at some of the Bollywood divas who have not only worn Kanjivaram sarees and looked graceful in them but inspired many women to embrace this dignified drape:

Even today, Rekha's golden Kanjivaram saris have not found any competition in Bollywood. Rekha, the Kanjeevaram queen has Bollywood bowing to her Kanjeevaram silk sarees. These silk saris in shades of gold and cream, worn with heavy traditional jewellery have become synonymous with the enigmatic actress. In her sixties, she is still a style icon and deserves all the credit for making kanchipuram saris a popular choice amongst Bollywood celebrities.

Dream girl Hema Malini from the sixties has aged beautifully and still has the charisma which earned her millions of fans in her young age. Her wardrobe which mainly comprises of elegant Kanjeevarams and sophisticated chiffons are the envy of Indian women where each saree is a delight in itself with beautiful detailing and intricate embroidery.

Pretty and graceful actress Sridevi has been spotted in kanjeevaram sarees on multiple occasions. Her choice of kanchipuram sarees are generally in flaming colors that are flanked by rich, embroidered pallus and blouses.

Vidya Balan is known for her elegant looks while wearing sarees. As she carries the six yards elegantly, and loves flaunting them, she herself has confessed that she is an ardent fan of kanchipuram sarees like her role model Rekha.

While timeless beauties like Rekha, Hema Malini and Sridevi have always endorsed Kanchipattus, it isDeepikaPadukonewho made them desirable among younger generation with her ravishing kanchipuram silk sarees collection in Chennai Express.

Tamanna Bhatia looks absolutely gorgeous in sarees, more so in the pretty Kanjivaram sarees as she is usually seen in film premiers and screenings. And while her flawless beauty can pretty much carry any look, she looks best in vibrant kanchi pattus.

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Bhagalpuri Silk Sarees – The Handloom Textile Legacy of Bihar

One of the oldest towns of Bihar, Bhagalpur finds a mention in Indian epic Mahabharata, as the kingdom of ‘Anga’, ruled by Karna, the abandoned Pandava. The story goes that when Arjuna refuses to compete with Karna as he does not belong to the Royal lineage, Duryodhana not only befriends Karna but also makes him the king of Anga thus making him eligible to compete with Arjuna.

Situated on the southern banks of sacred river Ganga for eons of years, Bhagalpur is also popular for its textiles since 16th century and is commonly referred to as the ‘Silk City’ of India. An important textile hub of the country, the city is popular for its silk fabric, Sericulture, Manufacturing of silk yarn and woven Textiles.

The variety of silks produced here are Tussar silk, Gicha silk, Matka silk, Eri silk, Mulberry and Noil silk. Silk is spun out of different stages like Jhuri, Danti, Katiya, Balkal etc. All these are regional names used for manufacturing silk fabric. Among all the varieties, Tussar contributes to over 1/4th of total silk production followed by Matka silk. Between these two, they contribute to over 50% of total silk production in Bhagalpur.

Major clusters in Bhagalpur that produce silk yarn, silk and hand-woven cloth are Nathnagar, Champanagar, Mirzafari, Aliganj, Puraini, Dariapur and Sheikhpura. There are over 35000 weavers with more than 20000 looms and together they generate over 100 crores revenue per annum.

The handloom weavers of Bhagalpur have gained expertise in manufacturing many varieties of silk. The spinning and weaving of this wide range of yarn requires skill, but the weavers of Bhagalpur and Banka district have mastered the art over years. Pit looms are used for weaving silk fabrics. Weaving is mainly dominated by male in Bhagalpur. Women assist male weavers in reeling and bobbin filling work.

The dyeing technique of Bhagalpuri silk sarees prevalent for over 200 years is what sets them apart from the regular silk sarees available in India. Known for their striking resilience and amazing quality, the popularity of Bhagalpuri silk sarees is not just confined to India but is popular in countries like Europe, Japan, US, UK and France.

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The Indian Embroidery Handloom Sarees

The land of many cultures, customs and religions, India is a treasure-trove of talent which is showcased in various art forms like dance, music and paintings which with its sheer diversity and variety has put India on the pedestal to International fame. One such craft is the Indian embroidery sarees which again is a diverse yet distinct testimony of our rich cultural heritage.

Over the years, different states of India influenced by innumerable invasions and settlement showcases a unique artistry and expansive talent through embroidery forms that vary from region to region, be it the bold and loud handwork of Gujarat or the subtle and intricate work of Chikankari embroidery sarees in Uttar Pradesh, story narration through threads of Kantha sarees in West Bengal or simple and colorful flower motifs of Phulkari in Punjab. Each embroidery form stands out for its unique style of stitches, use of mirrors, sequins and beads and use of fabrics and colours. Nurtured by artisans from the remotest corners of the country over centuries, Indian embroideries have caught the attention of the world. While India boasts of over a thousand embroidery styles, we have handpicked some that have reined the world of handloom sarees in India for over centuries.

Chikankari Embroidery from Uttar Pradeshs:

Chikan, literally translated to mean embroidery is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. While it is believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, the wife of Mughal emperor Jahangir, references have been cited to Indian chikan work as early as 3rd century BC. A delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net, etc, Chikankari is one of Lucknow's best-known textile décors where white thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments. Nowadays chikan embroidery is experimented with coloured and silk threads to meet the fashion trends and keep chikankari up-to-date. Additional embellishments like Mukaish, Kamdani, Badla, Kamdani, sequin, bead and mirror work are adopted to not only give a rich and trendy look but to help keep up with current fashion trends. Chikan embroidery is mostly done on fabrics like cotton, semi-Georgette, pure Georgette, crepe, chiffon, silk and tussars. The process of chikankari which includes Designing, Engraving, Block printing, Embroidery, Washing and finishing, the patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used. In all there are some 32 stitches some of them being tepchi, jaali and murri. Thus constant overhaul to cater to the ever changing fashion needs has made LucknowiChikankari most popular and world renowned.

Kantha Embroidery from West Bengal:

An indigenous household craft made by the rural women in West Bengal Kantha embroidery is a specialty of Bolpur-Santiniketan and remains the most creative of all embroidery styles in this part of India. The origin of Kantha embroidery traces its history to a period not less than a thousand years. Its images reaching back to even earlier sources, pre-

and post- Vedic period, some symbols such as the tree of life, the swirling cosmos, and the sun are taken from the primitive art. The later influence of Hinduism in Kantha embroidery for religious ceremonies, pujas, weddings and births, gave the art its place as a vehicle of significant cultural meaning. Different types of Kantha embroidery include Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.

Gota from Gujarat:

A form of appliqué in gold thread, Gotapatti is used for adorning saree borders in Gujarat. Small pieces of zari ribbons that are styled by hand are sewn onto the saree borders to create elaborate patterns. Lengths of wider golden ribbons are stitched on the edges of the saree to create an effect of gold zari work. Khandela in Shekhawati is famous for its manufacture. The Muslim community uses Kinari or edging, a fringed border decoration. Gota-kinari is practiced mainly in neighboring Rajasthan utilizing fine shapes of bird, animals, human figures which are cut and sewn onto the material.

Phulkari of Punjab:

Phulkari derived from Phul meaning flower and Kari meaning work, is the most famous embroidery form of Punjab and finds a mention in the famous folklore of Punjab, HeerRanjha by Waris Shah. It’s history backdates to 15th century in Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s reign.The most distinctive property of phulkari is that the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi cloth, with bright coloured threads that cover it completely, leaving no gaps. It uses a darn stitch done from the wrong side of the fabric using darning needles, one thread at a time, leaving a long stitch below to form the basic pattern. Phulkari is practiced ardently in cities of Punjab like Amritsar, Jalandhar, Ambala, Ludhiana, Faridkot, and Kapurthala. The art form inspires neighbouring states to also practice this art form including Gurgaon, Karnal, Hissar, Rohtak in Haryana and Delhi. Bagh is considered an offshoot of phulkari and almost always follows a geometric pattern, with green as its basic colour.

Zardozi:

Zari or Zardozi that comes from the two Persian words Zar meaning gold and Dozi meaning embroidery is the most ancient and opulent form of Indian embroidery. Known since the late 16th century brought in by the Mughals, this form of embroidery uses metallic threads like gold, silver or copper. Real gold and silver threads was used on silk brocade once upon a time where Metal ingots were melted and pressed through perforated steel sheets to convert into wires, which then were hammered to the required thinness. Plain wire is called "badla and when wound round a thread, it is called "kasav". Smaller spangles are called "sitara" and tiny dots made of badla are called "mukais" or "mukesh". Zardozi is either a synonym or a more elaborate version of zari where the gold or silver embroidery is embellished with pearls and precious stones, gota and kinari, making this art only affordable by rich people. Nowadays Zardosi thread has a plastic core and a golden-coloured outside. The thread consists of coiled metal wires placed on the right side of the fabric and couched with a thinner thread.

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The Pen Art of the Kalamkari – Famous Hand Work of South India

An ancient Indian art from South India that originated about 3000 years ago and derives its name from Kalam meaning Pen, and Kari meaning work, literally meaning Pen-work, Kalamkari art is nothing but tales narrated by artists in the form of vibrant illustrations on fabric, thus bringing them out alive! A slow and vigorous process that is painstakingly done with perfect, Kalamkari fabrics are created in seventeen steps, using only natural dyes, with numerous washes. Typically, the motifs capture the essence of temple architecture and scenes from great epics. Kalahasti & Masulipatnam located in Andhra Pradesh in south India are famous for this art form. Vibrant and full of life, this art form is an integral part of an Indian woman’s closet, her accessories box and even her footwear cabinet! Today, we bring you few of the ways in which it can adorn yours:

Wearing many a hand-painted Kalamkari sarees, Vidya Balan has pretty much been the brand ambassador of this vibrant art. The most popular way of adorning this effervescent art that oozes color is in the form of six yards.

Kalamkari print blouses in smart cuts and beautiful necks right from high necks to boat galas are a rage today. Pair them up with a plain dashing saree in any fabric be it silk, cotton or even georgette and be sure to hit it off with that cool looks where ever you are go.

Kurtas, Anarkalis, Kurtis or short tops, Kalamkari sets the trend wherever it goes!

Blending east with west are the smart and chic kalamkari long and flared skirts that with their cool indo western looks can be carried at formal occasions as well as cool get-togethers with equal aplomb.

Home furnishing and furnishing industry is buzzing with vibrant kalamkari print sarees right from curtains, cushion covers, wall paintings, table lamps and what not,  boy do they look cool or what!

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Handloom Sarees of India

Reminiscing the rich cultural history of the country and keeping one connected with its roots are Indian Handloom Sarees that hold a special place in our hearts and our wardrobes even today. Portraying many unique aspects of these six-yard legacies are thousands of specialized weavers across the country who by employing millions of looms are weaving magnificent sarees in cotton, silk and other natural fibers.

Each weaving cluster focuses on one unique feature to bring out the beauty of these handloom saree to the fullest while the legendary Banarasi silk sarees showcase Mughal inspired designs in their motifs, the celebratory Kanjeevaram sarees draw inspiration from Dravidian heritage like the inscriptions on their temples the Baluchari silk sarees from the east depict stories from the epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata in threads and Patola sarees from the west indulge in age-old specialized dyeing technique to weave intricate designs. Together they make a fine repertoire of eminent handloom sarees of India whose talent, variety and fine craft are incomparable.

History and Origin of Handlooms:

The handloom industry rolls its carpet back to the ancient times. The very first fragment of Indian handloom was excavated from the parts of Egypt. After that, finely woven and dyed cotton fabrics were found in MohenjoDaro (Indus Valley Civilization). Indian floral prints, dating back to the 18th century A.D were discovered by Sir Aurel Stein in the icy waters of Central Asia. There were some more excavations that speak of the golden history of Indian handlooms. Even the Vedic literature has a mention of Indian weaving. In fact, all evidence show that of all the arts and crafts of India, traditional handloom textiles are probably the oldest.

Regional variants of weave of Indian Handloom Sarees:

There are as many varieties of weaves in India as there people here! The exhaustive list includes pure mulberry silks from Tamil Nadu, textured ahimsa silks from Bihar, ikats from Andhra and Orissa, tie and dye from Gujarat and Rajasthan, jacquards from Uttar Pradesh, Daccai from West Bengal, and phulkari from Punjab; while some weaves specialize in unique dyeing techniques like Bhagalpuri, Bomkai, Bandhej and Patola, some have mastered the art of fabric painting like kalamkari and madhubani, some others showcase their art through colorful threads as their medium like chikankari and kantha while the likes of Banarasi, Kanchipuram and Paithaniindulge in intricate and opulent zari motifs.

Indian handloom sarees from across the many states of the country, with their many varieties and flavors have collected a precious wealth of innovation and have been instrumental in emergence of India as the most richly cultured country.

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