Bhagalpuri Silk Sarees – The Handloom Textile Legacy of Bihar

One of the oldest towns of Bihar, Bhagalpur finds a mention in Indian epic Mahabharata, as the kingdom of ‘Anga’, ruled by Karna, the abandoned Pandava. The story goes that when Arjuna refuses to compete with Karna as he does not belong to the Royal lineage, Duryodhana not only befriends Karna but also makes him the king of Anga thus making him eligible to compete with Arjuna.

Situated on the southern banks of sacred river Ganga for eons of years, Bhagalpur is also popular for its textiles since 16th century and is commonly referred to as the ‘Silk City’ of India. An important textile hub of the country, the city is popular for its silk fabric, Sericulture, Manufacturing of silk yarn and woven Textiles.

The variety of silks produced here are Tussar silk, Gicha silk, Matka silk, Eri silk, Mulberry and Noil silk. Silk is spun out of different stages like Jhuri, Danti, Katiya, Balkal etc. All these are regional names used for manufacturing silk fabric. Among all the varieties, Tussar contributes to over 1/4th of total silk production followed by Matka silk. Between these two, they contribute to over 50% of total silk production in Bhagalpur.

Major clusters in Bhagalpur that produce silk yarn, silk and hand-woven cloth are Nathnagar, Champanagar, Mirzafari, Aliganj, Puraini, Dariapur and Sheikhpura. There are over 35000 weavers with more than 20000 looms and together they generate over 100 crores revenue per annum.

The handloom weavers of Bhagalpur have gained expertise in manufacturing many varieties of silk. The spinning and weaving of this wide range of yarn requires skill, but the weavers of Bhagalpur and Banka district have mastered the art over years. Pit looms are used for weaving silk fabrics. Weaving is mainly dominated by male in Bhagalpur. Women assist male weavers in reeling and bobbin filling work.

The dyeing technique of Bhagalpuri silk sarees prevalent for over 200 years is what sets them apart from the regular silk sarees available in India. Known for their striking resilience and amazing quality, the popularity of Bhagalpuri silk sarees is not just confined to India but is popular in countries like Europe, Japan, US, UK and France.

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