The unique Technique of Ikat

Ties that bind, Ikat is an art form that is global and stretches across continents. A technique that is practiced in at least 28 to 30 countries across all the continents, Ikat is a craft that tests the skills of two sets of craftsmen — tie-dye experts and weavers that are combined together to create stunning masterpieces.

Practiced in Asia-Pacific (China, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan ), Latin America (Guatemala, Mexico, Ecuador, Peru, Chile and Argentina ), the Middle East (Egypt, Iran, Syria, Turkey and Yemen), West Africa and Europe (Italy and Spain), Ikat is one fabric that brings the whole world together with its common process of tying and dyeing and weaving. Variations in yarn (cotton, silk, wool, banana fibre, grass) together with the colour combination and the formation of motifs based on regional differences, historical and cultural significance is what gives it a unique identity in each country, differentiating one from another.

Some of the world renowned ikat arts are African ikat textiles (Ivory Coast), ikat ponchos in Argentina, double ikkats in Guatemala and the beautiful ‘rebozos’ in Mexico. There were variants of the ikat in the Victorian era as well which were woven in France known as chine a la branch and famously used as silk ribbons. Meissen ikat kimonos existed in the Edo period which was stenciled patterns on the warp threads before they were woven on the loom.In China, Li people of Hainan Island are experts in the ikat technique, which is woven on back strap looms.

Within India too there are many variations of ikat. Despite similar technique, the Patola silk sarees of Gujarat are very different from TeliaRumalor Pochampally of Telengana or even Sambalpuri Bomkai of Odisha. Ikat weaving, especially double ikat Patola (where both the warp and weft threads are tie/dyed), is amongst the most complicated weaves in the world. Here both the warp and weft are tie-and-dyed in colours which with progression of weaving, fit in beautifully to create exquisite patterns. In single ikat Patola silk sarees, only the warp or weft is tie-dyed. Conceptualization and execution of single ikat may not be as complicated and difficult as double ikat but it still needs skill and deft.

A stunning range of the exquisite tie-and-dye craft that is practiced all over the world, the art of ikat binds the world with its unity in diversity!

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