Sambalpuri Silk Sarees from Orissa

Among the treasures of Orissa’s vibrant craft tradition, the Sambalpuri silk sarees occupy a unique place. In the 1980s and 90s, these saris, characterised by their distinctive weave and motifs, came into the spotlight when late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi began wearing them during public occasions and they attracted an elite clientele thereafter.

Crafted in the Baandha style, Sambalpuri sarees are woven from yarns that are dyed using the tie and dye technique, wherein the yarns are first tied according to the design to be created and then immersed in color such that the tied parts resist dye. These yarns are later translated into motifs that are woven by the weavers on wooden hand loom.

About 5,000 families in villages like Nuapatna and Maniabandha in Cuttack district are exclusively engaged in weaving. The weaving tradition here goes back several generations. While the women spin the yarn on the charkha, the men do the weaving. High-quality cotton and silk fibres are sourced from other states. The yarn to be spun is washed in hot water to remove impurities and boiled in dye for close to two hours so the color is more permanent.

Sambalpuri sarees use natural dyes that are derived from leaves, bark of trees and minerals. Black dye comes from a decoction of neem and jackfruit leaves mixed with banyan root ash, red from bark of sheesham wood, blue from indigo, yellow from turmeric and crushed minerals and green from herbs and leaves.

There are three main varieties in Sambalpuri saree; Ikkat, Bomkai and Bapta:

• Ikkat sarees is further classified into Khandwa and Vichitrapuri. While Khandwa is characterized by large flora and fauna motifs, Vichitrapuri is characterized with smaller and sharper motifs.
• Bomkaisaree is a very elegant saree with single or two-tone border. Rectangular patterns alternating with tiny thread but is scattered all over the body define Bomkai sarees that flaunt rich pallus. With a160-count fineness, it is the lightest cotton weave which makes it ideal for humid climes.
• Baptasareethat uses silk in warp and cotton in weft show cases ikkat body with threadwork borders and pallus. It takes anywhere between 7 to 21 days to weave one Sambalpurisari, with two weavers to a loom. Bomkai art requires about three weavers, as the thread work is more intricate.

The Sambalpuri silk sarees come in lightweight with plain body and contrast handwoven designed borders and pallus. Heavy varieties are richly worked brocade silks employing different patterns at the body, pleats, pallu and blouse. Embellished with stately temple borders and pasapalli (rolling dice) checks, each sari has a distinct appeal.

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