Handloom Sarees – Pallu the Soul of a Handloom Saree

From embellishing the sari to serving a variety of functional purposes, the pallu is the most evident part of a handloom saree and is also the one that poses the ultimate challenge to a weaver's creativity.

Arbidlydescribed as the pallu, the mundhi, the aanchal, the pedre in Marathi and the sharag in Kannada, this outer end piece of the saree, is clearly its most decorative feature on the strength of which its appeal and scalability is largely determined. No prospective buyer will wrap up a sale without taking a look at the saree’s pallu, such is its pull!

From a weaver’s perspective too, pallu is the most challenging part of weaving because of the skill it demands in terms of creativity, mathematical precision and the disciplined geometrics involved in its layout patterning and calculated color scheme. Drawing inspiration from nature, temple architecture, human life and what-have-you, the weaver puts his soul into weaving especially the pallu which is the first to grab the attention of any woman.

According to the stalwarts of saree fashion, pallu gives character to a saree. Certain things are typical to a place and it is the pallu that tells you to which region the saree belongs to. Some of the famous sarees that are known for their pallus are as follows:

• Baluchari saree pallu is the most crucial part of the saree that lays the entire story from an epic onto its pallu in colored and sometimes zari thread weave.
• In Kanchipuram silk saree, the pallu may be simple, carrying over the border colour and design with lines and rekhus (motif of a temple spire in serrated lines) or elaborate with birds or animals like swans, parrots, peacocks, elephants or creeper-like patterns, the rudraksh (prayer beads) figuring on it.
• Intricately woven with pure silk and gold belonging to a tradition more than 2,000 years old, Paithani saree is a true work of art. Hailing from Paithan that is one of the oldest cities of the Deccan located on the north bank of the Godavari, the outstanding characteristic of this saree is the tapestry weave. In the pallu and the border, real zari is woven as a solid tissue background and woven patterns are inlaid in brilliant colored silk threads using the double interlock technique.
• In Sambalpuri saree, a traditional figured saree, so named after the village in Orissa, a special technique by which the field warp threads are cut and re-tied to different coloured warps for the end piece, a densely threaded and colourful pallu which stands out in relief and looks like fine embroidery, is created.
• Gadwal sarees from Andhra Pradesh usually with a cotton body with a silk border and pallu, are regarded as prayer sarees by local women who wear them for special religious or festive occasions. Richly brocaded with a contrast pallu and border carrying distinctive patterns influenced by traditions of stone and wood carving of the area, temple motifs like the hamsa, the mythical swan, the yaali or the stylized lion and the double headed eagle are some important figural motifs that adorn the pallu.
• The dressy Uppada saree pallus from Srikakulam in the Southern district of Andhra Pradesh complement the soft colorful sarees in contrasting shades and zari work.
• In Bengal tant cotton sarees, the pallu consists of a dominant central band with finer bands on either sides.

Most pallus with detailed and intricate extra patterning with use of motifs like vines, creepers, flowers and fish in colorful threads or zari, creating a densely woven effect at the fad end of a saree provide grand finale to the saree.

Image Courtesy:
http://bit.ly/2D8Zmc1