Princely Double Ikat Patolas and their Grandeur

India is a treasure trove of rich heritage textiles. Double ikat patola from a small town of Patan in Gujarat, west India is one such gem that glorifies this heritage. Connoisseur of gorgeous colors, impeccable design and durability, these extremely complex and intricate weave is a pride of not just Gujarat but the whole of India.

Peculiar qualities that make Patan double ikat Patolas different from the rest of the weaves are that they are woven using the difficult tie and dye process also known as knot dyeing or Bandhani process on the warp and weft separately before weaving resulting in sarees that have equal intensity of color and design on both sides. They are woven to such perfection that there is no reverse side to the saree.

The art of weaving Patola sarees is centuries old backdating this fact is the paintings in Ajanta caves that resemble the tie and dye technique of Patola. History has it that sometime around the 12^th century, king Kumarpal of Solanki dynasty invited around 700 weavers from Jalna in Maharastra to come and settle in Patan and weave sarees. Salvi family is the one that has continued to weave for over 35 generations this traditional art and they are the ones instrumental in preserving this heritage till date.

After the decline of the Solanki Rajputs, the Salvis founded a rich trade in Gujrat. Patola saris soon became a status symbol among Gujarati women and a part of stridhan, items a woman can claim as her own within a marital household.

To create a Patola sari, both the warp and weft threads are wrapped to resist the dye according to the desired pattern of the final woven fabric. This tying is repeated for each color that is to be included in the finished cloth. The technique of dying both the warp and weft before weaving is called double ikat. Once worn only by royalty and the aristocracy, Patola saris are used as precious gifts.

Not just a symbol of affluence and royalty, double ikat sarees are also considered auspicious and sacred. Woven to such perfection that only gods can create, double ikat patola sarees are considered good omen to be worn on holy occasions like religious rituals and sacred ceremonies. The careful choice of color combinations, motifs and designs in these sarees are considered to be auspicious symbols of prosperity and saubhagya for women imbibing the feeling of good luck and security.

Image courtesy:

http://bit.ly/2tbJUaW

http://bit.ly/2twJsWU

http://bit.ly/2tbmoec

http://bit.ly/2scxmic