Traditional Paithani Sarees from Maharashtra

Introduction to Paithani Silk Sarees 

Described as a poem in silk and gold, the traditional Paithani silk sarees that originated in the small town of Paithan in Maharastra are one of the most ancient, most opulent and the finest silk sarees of the country. Coveted sarees, Paithani sarees from Maharashtra are not just sarees but a precious heirloom to be passed on from one generation to the other, pretty much like antique jewelry. Also referred to as ‘the Mahavastra’ , the motifs and designs on this royal saree are inspired by sculptures and paintings found in the Ajanta and Ellora caves and adorned in golden brocade.Oblique Square designed borders and enchanting motifs like peacock, parrot, swan, chakra and flowers feature these sarees. Born to appeal the refined tastes of royalty in Maharashtra in olden days, Paithani silk sarees charm the women world over even today with their rich colors, their fine silk, their sumptuous weave and their generous real brocade work. Even today, a Maharashtrian wedding is incomplete without a Paithani saree as the bride’s wedding trousseau.

History of Paithani Sarees

The art of weaving Paithani sarees is more than 2000 years old that started in the rule of the legendary Satavahanas in the ancient city of Pratishthan, the current day Paithanin Maharashtra.So renowned was the rich artistry of the Paithani sarees that got  made here that Paithan became the international trade centre for silk and zari and its exquisite silk got exported to many countries and was traded in return for gold and precious stones. Paithani sarees from Maharashtra not only survived the many changing rulersin the past but flourished under their patronage as they cherished these sarees and brought in a lot of novelty in their making, their designs and motifs. For example, during the 17th century, the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb patronized Paithani Silk sarees by introducing a new motif called Aurangzebi. During  19^thand20th centuries, the Nizams of Hyderabad who ordered large quantities of Paithani silk sarees were responsible for introducing the parinda motif. Later the Peshwas of Pune with their special love for Paithani sarees took these sarees to new heights.

Traditional Colors and Motifs in Paithani Silk Sarees

The most distinguished feature of authentic Paithani sarees is that the reverse of the weave is an exact replica of the front design. This means that the reverse of the sari has as impeccable a finish as the front, void of any loose threads. Paithani saree collections sport varied vibrant colors. While some of the colors are pure, some result from the blending of different colored yarns in the weave. Usually the pallu and the border sport a contrast color that generally stand out. Some of the popular colors used for Paithani sarees are peach-pink called aboli in the native language, White with red and pale green called Firozi, Gujri is the black and white blend while orphankhi is the green and blue blend; Blue called Neeligunji and purple called vangi meaning brinjal are very popular.The darker shades of red, green, blue and yellow are popular and fast moving.

Under the patronage of various rulers, Paithani silk sarees in corporated may new motifs and designs over the years. The oldest traditional designs in Paithanisare theVine and Flowers called Asavali and the floral motifs called akruti. While mor or the peacock design have become synonym with Paithani sarees, there are other common designs that these sarees sport like the petal design called kalasPakli, the Pankha or fan, Narali meaning Cocountand cotton bud called Ruiphul in Marathi. Some of the Mughal inspired motifs, the bangdimor meaning peacock in a bangle, the Totamaina, the Pomegranate flower called as Anarvel and the BehestiParinda meaning the bird of paradise can also be seen on these sarees.

Paithani Sarees Online at Shatika

Paithani sarees collections are one of the most popular and fast moving categories at Shatika. Paithani sarees online shopping at Shatika is not just a regular with Maharashtrians but with women the world over.With a wide range of colors, patterns and designs, at Shatika, it is now possible to buy Paithani sarees online without worrying about their authenticity and genuinty.

The Mystery behind Shalu Wedding Sarees

Banaras – The Silk City

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Situated on the banks of river Ganga, the holy city of Banaras is home to some of the most ancient temples and finest silk sarees of the world. Around the 5th and 6th century, Banaras emerged as a textile centre under prince Siddhartha’s rule. But around the 17th century, the migration of silk weavers from Gujarat saw many an innovations in textile weaving in Banaras and it soon became the silk textile of the region. During Mughal period it reached its peak with introduction of opulent zari and brocade work, something it is identified with even today. 

The city has seen centuries of handmade textile tradition and is witness to adoption of new trends based on modern sensibilities. Some of the sarees that are made here are Kataan silk sarees, Kora silks, Dupian silk, Tanchoi saree, Tissue saree etc. The most prominent of them all are resplendent Banarasi shalu silk sarees. Rich, opulent and heavily brocaded pure silk sarees, these Shalu sarees are popular as Bridal Banarasi silk sarees.

Fascinating History of Popularity of Banarasi Shalu Wedding Sarees in Maharastra

A regional variant of sari from Banaras, Shalu interestingly is a popular wedding Shalu silk saree in Maharastra.  Infact, here it is known to be a famous version of the accredited rich Paithani silk that became famous around the 17th century in Maharastra. Known to have originated in Banaras, one wonders how it became more popular in culture rich Maharastra and that’s when one encounters a rather fascinating story of a Peshwa of Pune who during his travel to Varanasi with intent to expand the Maratha Rule under Chhatrapati Shahu brought this version of Banarasi shalu silk sarees to Maharashtra and entrusted the responsibility of their weaving to the acclaimed Paithani silk saree weavers in Yeola, the then weaving centre of Paithani silks. This justifies the origin of handloom Maharashtra a shalu sarees.

Distinction between Paithani Sarees, Wedding Shalu Silk Sarees and Banarasi Shalu Silk Sarees

The most obvious difference between a Traditional Paithani Saree and a Shalu is its texture. While the silk fabric of Paithanis is very thick, Shalu silk sarees are woven on very fine thin silk fabric. Also while Paithani sarees essentially display typical oblique work border and ornate zari pallu with plain bootis on the body of the saree, a Shalu is adorned with fine motifs on the border and more intricate and refined design on the pallu. The body of the saree too is embellished with fine zari motifs. 

In Shalu sarees too there is a fine variation in handloom Maharashtra shalu sarees and Banarasi shalu silk sarees. While both the sarees are heavily brocaded and woven on fine thin silk fabric, the motifs exhibit a tinge of their respective cultures. In spite of all their fine differences, what is in common between the two is theoutstanding artistry and craftsmanshipthat talks volumes about the rich experience that the weavers of both these regions carry.

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The Kanchipuram Our Pride and Honour

The times have changed, and the kanchipuram sarees have also undergone a transformation of sorts. There is embroidery or even crystal work done on the traditional Kanchipuram silk sarees. By now, aren’t you longing to buy your own kanchipuram, one steeped in gold and silver? Well, we have a few things to tell you about your favourite saree. A typical kanchipuram silk saree is known for its distinguishable characteristics of heavy silk with classic colours and rich zari woven pallu and border using koruvai technique. Woven on heavy lustrous silk, usually with contrasting borders and fabulous pallus of intricate designs. The kanchipuram sarees boast of its rich golden tapestry. They are the perfect family heirloom!

Authentic, unique and handpicked, hand woven silk sarees from across South India that adds elegance and style to a woman. Oh! There’s more, we also help you in creating your own legacy. Yes, we help you get an exclusive and unique saree just for you. Woven with love and ingenuity. Each kanchipuram silk saree is made from one of the world’s most sublime silks. Hand woven from pure mulberry silk, a single saree takes almost a week to finish. The silk yarn, after careful extraction, is dyed in the richest of colours and woven with the Zari. First the yarn is washed and then dipped in the desired colour. These yarns are then starched which gives the yarn a polished look. The silk used in kanchipuram saress is of the finest quality.

LOOMS AND THE TECHNIQUE

The kanchipuram weavers are in this profession to weave these sarees, were chosen for their sheer talent on a loom. And for centuries now, this skill has been handed down from one generation to the next, with great care and diligence. It is an art that was inherited, taught by the elders, and honed by practice, creativity and vision. Kanchipuram sarees are woven making the border and pallu of the same colour they are in bright contrast to the main saree. The motifs are inspired from nature and temple sculptures — religion, architecture. Weaving a kanchipuram is tedious but the saree is one of a kind, and stamps it with splendor and durability.

The shine and shimmer

Pure gold and silver is used to create the zari in a kanchipuram saree. The cost of a saree largely depends on the purity of the zari. The art of creating the perfect zari is relatively unknown – only a handful of families possess the knowledge of zari making. Though this makes a kanchipuram all the more precious. As it has resale value. Essentially, the ‘zari’ is a silk thread, twisted with a thin silver wire and then gilded with gold, to create the designs or motifs on the saree.

The proper girth and length

The width of any regular saree, even a silk saree, is a standard 45 inches; but the kanchipuram saree is typically much broader by three inches. The specialty of kanchipuram sarees is that the silk yarn is “double warp”, i.e., each “thread” is actually made up of three single threads twisted together. Also, because of the pure mulberry silk used for these threads kanchipuram sarees are renowned for their texture, lustre, durability and finish – thus making a kanchipuram saree much stronger (and more expensive) than its counterparts from Banaras or Dharmavaram.

IS IT WALLET FRIENDLY?

Sky-high prices (due to lack of skilled artisans/weavers) and the sky rocketing cost of silver/gold makes the saree more expensive day by day. But no Indian wedding is complete without it. It is also a hot favourite for women during festival seasons – it is common practice to wear them during poojas and while visiting temples. These Silk Sarees are now shipped abroad to cater to the over zealous overseas Indians. The bottom line is, whether in India or abroad – the soaring prices of the kanchipuram are somehow met with an equal amount of purchasing power. Such is our tradition!

Know more about Patola Handloom & Patola Silk Sareer

Checkout Patola Handloom

Vibrant colours, beautiful motifs and  a transformation of a silk saree into something ethereal. That is, the Patola saree from the land of colours –Gujarat.The saree they say is as old as the hills. The art of weaving was known in the 7th century as there is evidence in the Ajanta caves (near Mumbai) of some work which resembles the tie-dye technique of the patola saree. They used what is called the dye-resist technique. The Salvi silk weavers had the patronage of the Solanki rajputs ruling Gujarat and Patan even in the 12th century, was a formidable bastion of artisans  practising this weaving.

Gods and technique

Without the blessings of the Gods nothing is possible, it is said marriages were not solemonised without  the bride either offering a Patola sarees or wearing a Patola Saree!The great queens of yesteryears considered it their right to wear a patola saree everyday .Gosh  today the price would have wiped out budgets! But that was the time when India was a rich country and we are looking at 800-1000 years ago.

This  technique is not done by printing but by tying. Ties- dyes and  weaving  is called tie and dye process.  The preparation of  the warp and weft, gives this effect. Warp and weft are tied into knots according to the design to be woven and then dyed to different colours according to the design. While weaving, the weaver has to be very careful to unite a particular colour in weft with that in warp otherwise design would not be clear. Flowers, animal patterns created will be visible on both sides! That is, you can wear it both ways. When in a rush always choose to wear a patola! Weaving these Patan Patolas’ is no easy work. It is such a complicated  process that four or five members of the artisan’s family work on the saree for  months. The time needed to create this masterpiece of a saree, depends solely on the intricacy of the design and the weave! Prices also rocket in the same fashion

Relevance

Time has stood still in terms of technique, the dyes used are still organic or natural and it is today as expensive as it was then  (in terms of relativity). The royalty could afford it then, today politicians and industrialists can only afford it! The common Indian has to be blessed to have some as a family heirloom or a patola saree sans gold zari.  Patola silk cotton sarees will never go out of style. Shatika online saree store  has also seen a  increase in the sales of this exclusive saree from Gujarat.

Latest Patola Sarees available at Shatika 

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