Shatika Handloom Saree

Saturday, May 21, 2016

The Mystery behind Shalu Wedding Sarees

Banaras – The Silk City

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Situated on the banks of river Ganga, the holy city of Banaras is home to some of the most ancient temples and finest silk sarees of the world. Around the 5th and 6th century, Banaras emerged as a textile centre under prince Siddhartha’s rule. But around the 17th century, the migration of silk weavers from Gujarat saw many an innovations in textile weaving in Banaras and it soon became the silk textile of the region. During Mughal period it reached its peak with introduction of opulent zari and brocade work, something it is identified with even today. 
The city has seen centuries of handmade textile tradition and is witness to adoption of new trends based on modern sensibilities. Some of the sarees that are made here are Kataan silk sarees, Kora silks, Dupian silk, Tanchoi saree, Tissue saree etc. The most prominent of them all are resplendent Banarasi shalu silk sarees. Rich, opulent and heavily brocaded pure silk sarees, these Shalu sarees are popular as Bridal Banarasi silk sarees.

Fascinating History of Popularity of Banarasi Shalu Wedding Sarees in Maharastra

A regional variant of sari from Banaras, Shalu interestingly is a popular wedding Shalu silk saree in Maharastra.  Infact, here it is known to be a famous version of the accredited rich Paithani silk that became famous around the 17th century in Maharastra. Known to have originated in Banaras, one wonders how it became more popular in culture rich Maharastra and that’s when one encounters a rather fascinating story of a Peshwa of Pune who during his travel to Varanasi with intent to expand the Maratha Rule under Chhatrapati Shahu brought this version of Banarasi shalu silk sarees to Maharashtra and entrusted the responsibility of their weaving to the acclaimed Paithani silk saree weavers in Yeola, the then weaving centre of Paithani silks. This justifies the origin of handloom Maharashtra a shalu sarees.

Distinction between Paithani Sarees, Wedding Shalu Silk Sarees and Banarasi Shalu Silk Sarees

The most obvious difference between a Traditional Paithani Saree and a Shalu is its texture. While the silk fabric of Paithanis is very thick, Shalu silk sarees are woven on very fine thin silk fabric. Also while Paithani sarees essentially display typical oblique work border and ornate zari pallu with plain bootis on the body of the saree, a Shalu is adorned with fine motifs on the border and more intricate and refined design on the pallu. The body of the saree too is embellished with fine zari motifs. 
In Shalu sarees too there is a fine variation in handloom Maharashtra shalu sarees and Banarasi shalu silk sarees. While both the sarees are heavily brocaded and woven on fine thin silk fabric, the motifs exhibit a tinge of their respective cultures. In spite of all their fine differences, what is in common between the two is theoutstanding artistry and craftsmanshipthat talks volumes about the rich experience that the weavers of both these regions carry.

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Tuesday, May 3, 2016

The Kanchipuram Our Pride and Honour

The times have changed, and the kanchipuram sarees have also undergone a transformation of sorts. There is embroidery or even crystal work done on the traditional Kanchipuram silk sarees. By now, aren’t you longing to buy your own kanchipuram, one steeped in gold and silver? Well, we have a few things to tell you about your favourite saree. A typical kanchipuram silk saree is known for its distinguishable characteristics of heavy silk with classic colours and rich zari woven pallu and border using koruvai technique. Woven on heavy lustrous silk, usually with contrasting borders and fabulous pallus of intricate designs. The kanchipuram sarees boast of its rich golden tapestry. They are the perfect family heirloom!
Authentic, unique and handpicked, hand woven silk sarees from across South India that adds elegance and style to a woman. Oh! There’s more, we also help you in creating your own legacy. Yes, we help you get an exclusive and unique saree just for you. Woven with love and ingenuity. Each kanchipuram silk saree is made from one of the world’s most sublime silks. Hand woven from pure mulberry silk, a single saree takes almost a week to finish. The silk yarn, after careful extraction, is dyed in the richest of colours and woven with the Zari. First the yarn is washed and then dipped in the desired colour. These yarns are then starched which gives the yarn a polished look. The silk used in kanchipuram saress is of the finest quality.

LOOMS AND THE TECHNIQUE
The kanchipuram weavers are in this profession to weave these sarees, were chosen for their sheer talent on a loom. And for centuries now, this skill has been handed down from one generation to the next, with great care and diligence. It is an art that was inherited, taught by the elders, and honed by practice, creativity and vision. Kanchipuram sarees are woven making the border and pallu of the same colour they are in bright contrast to the main saree. The motifs are inspired from nature and temple sculptures — religion, architecture. Weaving a kanchipuram is tedious but the saree is one of a kind, and stamps it with splendor and durability.
The shine and shimmer
Pure gold and silver is used to create the zari in a kanchipuram saree. The cost of a saree largely depends on the purity of the zari. The art of creating the perfect zari is relatively unknown – only a handful of families possess the knowledge of zari making. Though this makes a kanchipuram all the more precious. As it has resale value. Essentially, the ‘zari’ is a silk thread, twisted with a thin silver wire and then gilded with gold, to create the designs or motifs on the saree.
The proper girth and length
The width of any regular saree, even a silk saree, is a standard 45 inches; but the kanchipuram saree is typically much broader by three inches. The specialty of kanchipuram sarees is that the silk yarn is “double warp”, i.e., each “thread” is actually made up of three single threads twisted together. Also, because of the pure mulberry silk used for these threads kanchipuram sarees are renowned for their texture, lustre, durability and finish – thus making a kanchipuram saree much stronger (and more expensive) than its counterparts from Banaras or Dharmavaram.
IS IT WALLET FRIENDLY?
Sky-high prices (due to lack of skilled artisans/weavers) and the sky rocketing cost of silver/gold makes the saree more expensive day by day. But no Indian wedding is complete without it. It is also a hot favourite for women during festival seasons – it is common practice to wear them during poojas and while visiting temples. These Silk Sarees are now shipped abroad to cater to the over zealous overseas Indians. The bottom line is, whether in India or abroad – the soaring prices of the kanchipuram are somehow met with an equal amount of purchasing power. Such is our tradition!